Piglet Care Sheet
Care and Maintenance of Miniature Pot-bellied Pigs
FEEDING
Pigs are grazing animals and require the same type of feed as horses. Feed a complete pellet (one that contains both grain and alfalfa) of 14 to 16 % protein. Weigh the pellet and weigh the piglet using the same units (ounces or pounds). Feed the piglet a daily total of 1 to 2 % of its body weight in feed a day (as directed on the bag). For the Mazuri Active Adult Mini Pig Pellet, this is 1/4 cup per day per 6 pounds of piglet weight ( this equals 1 1/2 % or the mid-range of 1 to 2 %). This also equates out to 1 tablespoon of Mini-pig pellets per pound of piglet weight per day. Adjust the amount of feed as your piglet grows. Remove uneaten food after each feeding. The eating habits of your pet are the only health indicator you have as the caretaker of your piglet. Feed only what is required and take note if your piglet goes "off feed". This usually means your youngster is not healthy--so don't lose this indicator by over feeding. Add a long fiber source like timothy hay (a handful a day) or some green leafy lettuce to keep the piglet healthy. Additional sources of good nutrition are plain yogurt, grapes, popcorn, cheerios, cooked brown rice and other whole grain and vegetable sources that are healthy for people, too. Use quart size stainless steel puppy bowls (they are hard to tip over) or a hanging glass puppy water bottle and a single bowl.
The Mazuri Elder Mini-pig pellet is a 14% protein level. This would be a good feed to switch to once your piglet reaches 3 months of age or if you notice especially waxy ears or weepy eyes. Wheat middlings (wheat scraps) are used to increase the protein level in the Active Adult to a 16% protein pellet. Wheat could cause allergies in some animals which manifest as ear infections or runny eyes. The Mazuri company may have based their protein level requirements on hog data. Hog feeds are designed for a short, fattening life and hogs end up butchered before they reach a year in age.
Most grains (corn, oats and barley) are 8% protein and Alfalfa is 15-17% protein. Blending them in a 25% grain / 75% hay ratio results in a perfect horse oe pig ration of 14% protein. In the last ten years, horse feed manufacturers have realized that horses can develop lameness problems due to the 16% protein levels and have changed horse diets to 14% protein levels. They do this by using Oat hay or Timothy hay in their pellets to reduce the protein level. You can reduce your piglets protein level by feeding cooked brown rice or adding Timothy hay to the feeding plan in exchange for the pellet meal. Or you can simply switch to the "Elder" blend and remove the wheat from your piglet's diet.
Do not feed guinea pig food, rabbit food or any all -purpose small animal food. Use only complete ration pellets designed for Pot-bellied pigs or a complete ration pellet designed for horses. These are the only formulas that don't contain harmful chemicals for your pet. If you notice any changes in your piglets droppings --check your feed source to make sure it is mold and bug free. Get used to the smell of a fresh bag of pellets and throw it away if you suspect it becomes rancid during storage. Don't store the pellets in plastic containers or you will have mold. Keep a portion of the pellets in a half gallon pitcher and roll up the main bag and clip it shut. Keep it off the floor in a cool area and remove feed as you need it.
LITTER BOX
Piglets use a litter box like a cat without any formal training. Purchase a large plastic mortar box (Home Depot) or a large size cat litter box and cut down one of the long sides to a two inch height. Use white pine shavings instead of cat litter (some piglets have ingested cat litter --so don't use it). You can get a plastic-wrapped bale of pine shavings at the feed store and store it in your car port. Dump the used material in the garden next to your favorite tree. When the piglet gets older, you can train it to use a
Care and Maintenance of Miniature Pot-bellied Pigs
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doggy door to go outside.
Be sure that the long side of your large litter or mortar box is cut down to remove the wall. Piglets readily use a litter box that is open and doesn't move around when they go in and out. If the piglet can turn around in the litter box without rubbing the walls or causing it to slide---then it will use it!
PUPPY BEDS AND KEEPING WARM
Get your piglet a medium sized puppy bed. We use a puppy play pen for the youngsters and put the litter box on one end and the puppy bed on the other end. If your piglet is under five pounds in weight, provide a heating pad slipped inside the puppy bed cover for extra warmth at night . Treat the young piglet like a Chihuahua puppy. It doesn't have muscles to create body heat and loses body heat quickly due to its small size. Provide a comforter or blanket over the bed for the piglet to burrow into for added warmth. Piglets also fit into the small sweatshirts, sweaters and Doggles made for dogs.
GROOMING
Piglets can be bathed using baby shampoo and following up with baby oil. Clean the piglet with any gentle shampoo just like you would clean a puppy. Use a gentle soft bristle brush for the coat. Wipe out the ears with a cotton ball touched with rubbing alcohol; stroking the visible area from inside the ear to the tip. If the toenails seem long; gently file the edges. If you aren't sure if the toenails are correct--leave them alone because they probably are just fine. The Leavitt line has white feet and toenails and those are the softest. They often wear down with normal use unless your piglet is on carpets all day. If needed, a variable speed Dremel tool can also be used to sand the edges gently into shape. Piglets also can have their toenails painted for special occasions.
BACKYARD GRAZING
Do not let your piglet graze where the vegetation has been treated with inorganic fertilizer, pesticides or herbicides. During heavy rains, keep your pig off the grass if the upslope neighbor uses any chemicals outside the house. Contamination travels laterally and your vegetation will then absorb it and be lethal to the piglet. It's safer to provide Timothy Hat or Alfalfa Hay cubes for your piglet than take the chance.
Celery has been known to cause intestinal blockages in chinchillas. So, use leafy greens like lettuce or dried greens like alfalfa or timothy cubes, pellets or hay .
WORMING
Piglets can be easily wormed using .27% Ivomec injectable for swine purchased at your feed store or mail order (Jefferspet.com). The dosage is determined by body weight and listed on the container. Some people worm once a year and some twice a year. Purchase small 1 cc syringes from Longs (or Jefferspet.com) to withdraw the solution and feed it on a cracker. It's the same chemical used for horses and dogs (ivermectrin) and is safe to use and effective. We use insulin syringes and inject it subcutaneously into the web of the hind leg. But it can be fed to them, too.
VACCINATIONS
Call around and find a vet who carries vaccines for piglets or ask your vet to stock it. Have your vet vaccinate your baby every month with 1/10 of a cc until it is 5 months old . Keep the dosage very low because the pig vaccines are formulated for large swine and are very potent. Revaccinate every three years (like a flu shot) if you take your pig out on trails or areas where other pigs may have traveled.
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years (like a flu shot) if you take your pig out on trails or areas where other pigs may have traveled. Three years ago, a researcher found that dogs vaccinated at five months of age retained antibodies for ten years. So the only reason for revaccinating after five months of age would be to get the current viral update or if your exposure level is high. If you show your pig or attend pig gatherings, talk to your vet and they'll know what vaccination is needed for your region and situation.
©Island Forest Ranch & Aviary
May 2007
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